You can have 60 cards you "like" and still lose every game without understanding why.

Most new Lorcana deck-builders don't lose because their cards are bad. They lose because their deck can't do its thing on time.

Here's the fix: stop thinking "What are my best cards?" and start thinking "What does my deck look like on turns 1-5?" (because that's where most games get decided).

With that, let's build something that actually functions.

What are you trying to do with your deck?

Before you pick colors, pick a plan. One sentence.

Examples:

• "I want to quest early and force racing math."
• "I want to control the board, then win with big threats."
• "I want to gain lore in chunks while trading efficiently."

If you can't say it in one sentence, your deck is going to feel like a pile (even if the cards are strong).

However... you also need to know how you plan to win when the opponent pushes back.

A simple way to frame it:

• How do you gain lore when things go well?
• How do you gain lore when things go badly?
• What do you do if the opponent is faster than you?

What colors should you start with?

Pick two inks that make your first deck easier to pilot, not "more advanced." That usually means you want access to at least TWO of these tools:

• Early characters (so you don't fall behind immediately)
• Interaction (challenging, removal, or disruption)
• Card advantage (draw, filtering, recursion)
• Ink efficiency (ways to spend your ink every turn)

Now on the surface, it's tempting to pick colors based on a favorite character or theme. That's fine for your first draft. Just make sure your two colors solve problems.

If your list can only "do its thing" when nobody touches you, you're going to have a rough time at your first league night.

What does a "functional" Lorcana curve look like?

Most games punish you for skipping early turns. So, your first deck should be built to play a card on turns 1, 2, and 3 as often as possible (even if your "real plan" starts later).

A beginner-friendly curve target (not a rule, just a solid starting point):

• 1-cost: 8-12 cards
• 2-cost: 12-16 cards
• 3-cost: 10-14 cards
• 4-cost: 6-10 cards
• 5+ cost: 6-10 cards

Why this works: it gives you a real chance to develop, interact, and still draw live cards later.

"But what if I want big late-game cards?"

Cool. Just don't build a deck that only starts playing on turn four. If your first meaningful play is late, you'll be forced into bad challenges, bad trades, and desperate topdecks.

How many uninkables can you run without bricking?

This is one of the sneakiest ways new decks lose.

You'll draw a hand that looks powerful... and then realize you can't ink enough cards to play anything on time.

A safe baseline for a first build:

• Aim for roughly 10-14 uninkables (adjust later based on experience)

If you don't know your list yet, start closer to the low end. You can always add the "spicy" uninkables later once you know your deck still curves.

A simple "if X then Y" rule

• If you keep hands and often think, "I can't afford to ink this," you probably have too many uninkables or too many expensive cards.
• If you're flooding (lots of ink, not enough impact), you probably need more card draw or more high-leverage plays.

What should your deck be made of?

Your first deck should have clear jobs. If you can't explain what a card is doing for you, it's a cut candidate.

Here's an easy breakdown that keeps you honest:

• Core categories to include

  • Early board (characters you can play early)
  • Lore plan (how you actually get ahead)
  • Interaction (ways to answer threats)
  • Consistency (draw, filtering, redundancy)
  • Finishers (cards that end games, not just "big stuff")

Now the important part: your categories should support your plan, not fight it.

If your plan is "quest early," your interaction needs to protect your questers and punish the opponent's attempts to stabilize.

If your plan is "control," your early characters are mostly there to not die before your control tools turn on.

What does good sequencing look like?

Sequencing is where newer players either steal wins or throw them away.

Here are a few concrete turn patterns to build around.

Pattern 1: The "don't fall behind" opener

• turn one: ink + play a 1-cost character (or set up)
• turn two: ink + play a 2-cost that either quests well or challenges well
• turn three: ink + play two small cards or one high-impact 3-cost

If you can't do something close to this often, your curve is off.

Pattern 2: The "stabilize vs fast decks" line

If your opponent is clearly racing:

• Prioritize plays that affect the board immediately
• Challenge sooner than you "want" to
• Don't get baited into greedy questing when you'll lose your board next turn

A clean example:

• If you quest now and lose two characters to challenges next turn, you didn't "gain lore," you just took a loan you can't repay.

Pattern 3: The "pressure vs slow decks" line

If your opponent is slow (setup-heavy, drawing cards, playing fewer characters early):

• Quest more aggressively early
• Force them to answer you (don't give them unlimited time)
• Save interaction for their stabilizing pieces, not random early bodies

If they're trying to reach a late-game state, make that path expensive.

How do you actually test a first deck?

Goldfishing helps (playing your turns with no opponent), but you need a quick structure so you learn fast.

Try this simple testing loop:

• Play 5 games vs anything
• After each game, write down:

  • Did I play something meaningful on turns 1-3?
  • When I lost, was it because I fell behind early, ran out of cards, or couldn't answer a specific threat?
  • Did I ever have a hand where I couldn't ink without ruining my next turns?

Then make small changes (not a full rebuild).

The beginner trap

Don't change 20 cards after one bad match. You won't learn what mattered.

Change 5 cards max, then run it again.

What should you cut first?

When you're staring at a list that's 70+ cards, trimming is hard. Here are the easiest first cuts:

• Cards that are good only when you're already winning
• Cards that require a perfect setup to be useful
• Expensive cards that don't immediately swing the board or close the game
• "One-of" pet cards that don't match your plan (for now)

However... don't cut all your late-game power out of fear. You just want late-game cards that matter when they hit the table.

What now?

If you want to build your first deck this week and actually feel progress, do this:

1. Pick a plan in one sentence (quest race, board control, midrange value, etc.).
2. Pick two inks that give you at least TWO tools (early board, interaction, draw, efficiency).
3. Build your first curve using the curve targets above.
4. Start with fewer uninkables until you stop bricking.
5. Play 5 games, change 5 cards, repeat.

Questions to think about after those first 5 games:

• What did I lose to most often (speed, removal, big threats, running out of gas)?
• On turn three, did I feel ahead, behind, or even most games?
• Did my "best cards" actually get played, or did they sit in hand?

Thanks for reading and being part of the Lorcana community. If you want more decklists, unique takes, and event coverage, you can always find me on Twitter @_EmeraldWeapon_.